Inverted Tab Setting
Piercing ~ Stone-setting
You are going to love this fabulous cold-connection method of setting stones. Because it doesn’t involve heat, it’s a perfect solution for working with large stones. Inverted tabs are cut from the silver behind the stone, so you still have the sheet surrounding the stone which you can customize with a unique shape, or a hammered texture. Ideally you want a stone that looks nice on the backside, as the pierced silver will show the back of the stone on the underside of your piece. This can be a fun technique to use with semi-transparent stones like my sample or any stone where you would like to show the back as well. This class focuses on how to chart your pattern as well as the functional process.
Please note: You will not complete this project in this class. You will need to come back to an open session or finish it on your own. We WILL cover how to draw out a pattern unique to your stone so please come prepared with various colored ball-point pens and a highlighter. Then it will be up to you to cut it out, file, and clean it up before you can set the stone.
This is not a beginner project! You must be comfortable with drilling and using a jeweler’s saw as well as any surface patterning you desire.
Desert Jewel Studio, 26839 N 44th St, Cave Creek, AZ 85331. You will receive directions upon registering for class.
This class is not on the schedule at this time. If you are interested in taking it, e-mail email@example.com with your interest and availability.
How do I sign up?
Class will be $55/person. E-mail firstname.lastname@example.org or call Jen at (480)635-2402 to register any time from noon to 10pm.
What will I need to bring to class
You will need a durable stone with a flat and presentable backside. This is a great project for larger stones as it does not require soldering. Once you settle on a stone, you will need a piece of 20ga sterling silver that is at least 1/2″ larger than the stone allowing for any design/shape you wish to have surround your stone.
- Colored pens (ball point – at least 3 contrasting colors)/highlighter for making your pattern
- plain paper
- rubber cement
- poster putty (optional)
- Ruler (drafting grid ruler if you have one)
- Steel block/ silencing pad
- Texturing hammers
- Bench pin with a clamp
- Jeweler’s saw frame with 3/0 blades
- Silicone lubricant
- bamboo skewer
- File (#4 cut half-round file recommended)
- Quality needle files
- 2mm round bur fitted in a pin vise
- 3M sanding sponges/ slurry coated polishing cloths
The following additional tools will be needed for a second session to set your stone, but we will not need them in this first class…
- Forming hammer and/or small hammer for tightening prongs
- Chain-nose pliers
- Flat/half round pliers or stepped pliers
- 1.5mm hole punch to make connection holes.
- 2.5mm round bur fitted in a pin vise
- Silicone lubricant
- Bezel pusher (seasoned)
- Burnishing tool (just in case)
- EVE Universal silicone polishing wheels (black- knife edge) (optional)
- Moore’s sanding disks (optional)
- Glue (optional)
- Magnifying glasses– most people don’t think they need them until they are faced with seeing the detail of jewelry close-up.
- Covered water or other refreshing beverage
- Snacks are always welcome as well. 🙂
The following tools will be supplied in class for your use:
- Poster putty
- Rubber cement
- Center punch
- #58 drill bit
- Wood block
- Flex shaft (dremel/drill press)
The majority of the above items are available locally at C&D Silver, SJ Jewelry Supply, Lonnie’s Jewelry Supply or other on-line jewelry supply sources. If you have any difficulty or questions about obtaining any of these items, please contact Jen to inquire about your options.