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Abstract Layering with Bezel Cups

Soldering – Riveting – Bezel setting – Hole punching

Heat Patina -Fusing (optional)

Feature a bezel set stone with a variety of layers.  Typically, you don’t see stones set in pieces that are associated with cold connections.  We are forced to use cold connections to join items that may have a special patina, or an odd (or uneven) surface that is hard to solder.  Or sometimes, it’s just the best method to create a composition with parts that you have already created.  With this project, I will show you how you can transform a bezel cup into a decorative rivet by soldering a length of tube to the backing.  My sample piece in the pic here shows a copper sheet with a heat patina, layered with a web of fused wires.  You can follow my example or you can branch out with your own design.  Your layers can consist of leather hide, hammer textured shapes, fused scraps, and even some types of found objects.  The caveats are: you must be able to punch (or drill) a 1/8″ hole in each layer; they must be able to withstand the pressure of riveting; and they must be relatively flat under where the bezel setting is creating the join.  So you could use a jeweler’s saw to cut out custom shapes (like a flower for instance), you could work with layering abstract shaped triangles, you can work with varied types of metal, or whatever you can devise to layer for a nice composition.  You are also free to make a pendant, earrings, or a component for a bracelet.  This class is focused on the art of the connection, not a specific result.  There is also flexibility with the stone you use.  I recommend keeping the stone on the smaller side (less than the size of a quarter) but also not too small (at least 10mm).  You will need a bezel cup that fits your stone.  If you already know how to craft a custom bezel cup, you may use a unique cut stone and show up to class with the stone and a cup ready to go, or you will need to use a calibrated stone with a matching prefab cup.
 
Please note:  This is not a beginner project!  It utilizes a wide array of skills and there is not time to learn them all in this class.  Please do not sign up if you are not already comfortable with basic fabrication skills.
 

 Where?

Desert Jewel Studio, 26839 N 44th St, Cave Creek, AZ 85331. You will receive directions upon registering for class.

When?

This class is not on the schedule at this time.  If you are interested in taking it, e-mail jen@jewelryclasseswithjen.com with your interest and availability.

How do I sign up?

Class will be $65/person. E-mail jen@jewelryclasseswithjen.com or call Jen at (480)635-2402 to register any time from noon to 10pm.

What will I need to bring to class

This project is open to your creative whims.  As described above, you will need objects to layer that you can punch a 1/8″ hole in.  They need to be flat under where the bezel cup creates the join, but they can vary quite a bit.  You also need a cabochon stone with a matching bezel cup that is smaller than a quarter yet larger than 10mm.  I will bring various sheet, scraps and wire for fusing, as well as 14 x 10mm oval onyx cabs and cups and 13 x18mm  stones and cups if you need to purchase materials.  I will also have the 1/8″ OD seamless tubing that we will be using.  Oh – and don’t forget bails, ear wires, and/or jump rings.  I’ll have some of these available if you need them.

Tools:

  • Jeweler’s saw, 3/0 blades to cut your tube
  • Bench pin with clamp, silicone lubricant (if desired to craft your layers)
  • Chain nose pliers (optional for assembly)
  • Flat nose pliers (optional for assembly)
  • Wrap n’ tap pliers (Beadsmith #PL46) (optional for forming layers)
  • Bail making pliers (Beadsmith #PL42) (optional for forming layers)
  • Stepped pliers (Beadsmith #PL48) (optional for forming layers)
  • Steel block/ silencing pad (optional for forming layers)
  • Texturing hammer(s) (optional for forming layers)
  • Forming hammer (optional for forming layers)
  • File(s) – preferably a #4 cut half-round
  • Needle files (optional if desired for refining your layers)
  • Sharpie marker (ultra fine tip)
  • 3M sanding sponges/ slurry coated polishing cloths (for cleaning your cup)
  • Small flat piece of 180 or 220 grit emery paper
  • bezel pusher (seasoned)
  • bezel rocker (optional)
  • burnishing tool
  • dental floss
  • rubber jaw vise (if you have one)
  • Magnifying glasses– most people don’t think they need them until they are faced with seeing the detail of jewelry close-up.
  • Covered water or other refreshing beverage
  • Snacks are always welcome as well. 🙂

The following tools will be supplied in class for your use:

  • Basic soldering set-up
  • medium silver solder
  • liver of sulfur, dish, spoon, wire hook
  • Nikolas lacquer
  • Large hole hand punch
  • Disc cutter
  • 1/8″ drill bit, center punch, wood block
  • transfer punch set
  • vise
  • Tube cutting jig
 

The majority of the above items are available locally at C&D SilverSJ Jewelry SupplyLonnie’s Jewelry Supply or other on-line jewelry supply sources. If you have any difficulty or questions about obtaining any of these items, please contact Jen to inquire about your options.